Second Draft: Mississippi Steel

[JenniferS]

MISSISSIPPI STEEL
Created by Jennifer Schoonover
TIME: 10 Sessions of an hour each
INGREDIENTS LIST: LAW, TEAM, STEEL, and even some ACTOR

Roleplaying at 60 MPH!

Introduction:

Alligators, bayous, and redneck racing: that’s what Mississippi Steel is all about. Combining the best of roleplaying games and automotive competition, this game was designed to be played over ten one-hour sessions—the first session to create your racing team, the other nine as races in a single season. Each race lasts approximately one half-hour, allowing your team fifteen minutes before and after the race to interact with the other teams and outside influences. Using a competitive-racing point system, a grand prize winner will be determined at the end of the last race.

As a Player, you control at least one racing team consisting of a Driver, Pit Crew, and Car. The gamemaster, or Announcer, controls the track conditions, the scoring, the actions of any Non-Player Teams or People, and the Crashes. And, oh…there will be lots o’ crashing.

Important Note: With all the rules that have developed over the last few years for the safety of everyone involved…well, we’re going to go back in time a bit to make it even more risky. Figure it’s around 1985. There are no disqualification rules against fighting, obscenities, or what takes place off-track. The only basic driver’s rule we have on the track is that there is no driving under the influence.

NECESSARY FOR PLAY: six-sided dice and this book.

FUN TO ADD: Toy cars and a drawn-out race track. Following the map below, sketch out on a large piece of paper a track that is at all points three toy cars wide with a bit of room between each. Trophies for the end of the season are really cool too. If you can pull it off, get a hold of some green, red, yellow, black and checkered flags.

THE RACE

All races will take place at the Dirty Water Raceway, which consists of an oval asphalt track with an “X” in the middle. The type of racing we’re focusing on is figure-eight car racing. It’s also been called “Demolition Racing” or “Playing Chicken at 60 Miles per Hour.” This is high-risk car racing that uses standard cars that have the barest minimum of modifications. We’re working here with 15 laps in 15 minutes.

PLAYER’S SECTION

This game can be played with as few as 2 characters, so long as they each play two teams. There can be as many as 25 cars in a race. The GM will have to play all other drivers (Don’t panic, GM… look in your section!).

1. Included in this game is a character sheet. Take a look at it. It is divided into four uneven sections. You have your DRIVER, the CREW, the CAR, and the SPARE PARTS. The SPARE PARTS is just your equipment list and will see use further on. The other three sections have four STATS each to individualize your racing team. At the top put your name and the name and number of your team (all Players choose their numbers ahead of time so they don’t double up on a number).
2. Your STATS are very rudimentary. Each section must total 8 points between the four stats. The highest number you can have in a single Stat is 3, the lowest is 1, and 2 is the average. Most racing will just involve rolling for the Driver and the Car, but the Crew will also be involved in maintaining the car, spotting for the Driver, and obtaining parts.
3. The Driver has four stats that refer to his/her driving ability as well as his off-track personality. While it’s true that these abilities may not associate with each other normally, it’s the best we could do here. Put down your Driver’s name (make it hokey if you wish) and put a 1, 2, or 3 in the following stats so that you have a total of 8 points in the Driver’s Section.
CONTROL/TEMPER: Maintaining control of the car and not losing one’s temper.
REACTION TIME/AGILITY: How quickly the Driver reacts to changes in the situation.
STEERING/INTELLIGENCE: On-track aiming of the car, carrying out actions unconsciously and making deals.
STYLE/CHARISMA: Doing things with flair and obtaining Endorsements
4. The Pit Crew also has four stats that correspond not only with how the pit crew repairs and maintains the car, but how specific individuals within the team function. You should probably add in names of at least the top three individuals.
KNOWLEDGE/CREW CHIEF: What they know about fixing cars and specifically how well the Crew Chief can keep everything running smoothly.
HAND-TO-EYE/TIRE CHANGERS: How well the crew puts things on the car under duress without dropping or missing things as well as how well the two tire changers can change tires.
SPEED/GO-GETTER: How fast the crew works and the Crew Chief’s main man for finding things.
COORDINATION/THE REST OF THE PIT CREW: How well the crew works together, gets along together, and any individuals of the crew not listed above.
5. The Car also has four stats but requires additional information. For one thing, you must choose your car. It is generally accepted that you have at least one car to start the race, along with four tires, an engine, a firesuit, and some gas. This is to get you racing as quickly as possible. We have a list of acceptable cars (page XX) included for your perusal as well as a bona fide rules list (page XX) for cars in figure-eight track racing in case you want to come up with your own car. The car list includes miles to the gallon (shouldn’t be a problem in 15-lap racing, but you never know), as well as top speed, how fast the car accelerates, and the condition of the car when you first get it. The Stats are as follows:
SPEED: Speeds on these tracks average about 60 mph, but on the straight-ways, you can max out at a higher rate than others.
BRAKES: Brakes are used a lot, especially around the Danger Zone.
HANDLING: Steering as well as control.
ACCELERATION: How quickly you can reach your chosen speed,
6. Spare Parts are exactly that: a list of the supplies you have, your available money, and the endorsements you’ve received.

How rolls usually work:
In order to do something complicated, the GM will choose four of the above stats from any of the three sections and ask you to add the numbers together. He then rolls the TRACK/SITUATION DIE. If the total is over 10, you make it.

Example: You are required to perform a maneuver that involves the ACCELERATION (2) and HANDLING (3) of the Car and the CONTROL (1) and the REACTION TIME (2) of the Driver. Your total comes to an 8, the GM rolls the six-sider to see if you get at least a 10. On a 1, you don’t make it.
In straight-up racing (no variables present), you are assumed to have an 8 at all times, and the GM (or you if there are a lot of cars in the field) just has to roll the TRACK DIE. A driver who gets a 1 on the TRACK DIE has failed to keep the car in line for whatever reason losing track speed and/or position.

Non-Player Cars run at an average of 6 at the beginning of the race, allowing players to readily pass NPCs and get into the real nitty-gritty of playing against each other.

The GM has a checklist of Stat combinations to allow for ease of play, but here are some common stat combinations for you to remember or jot down on the side.

Taking Turns: HANDLING + SPEED of Car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver
Avoiding Accidents: HANDLING + BRAKES of Car added to REACTION TIME and STEERING of Driver
Passing: ACCELERATION + HANDLING of Car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver
Getting knocked off line: HANDLING + BRAKES of car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver
Repairing any part of the car: The four Pit Crew Stats added together.
Obtaining missing spare parts for the car: ENGINEER + GO-GETTER of the Pit Crew added to STYLE of Driver and SPEED of Car (No it doesn’t quite make sense but hey, if the Car and Driver have good reputations, people are more likely to help out.)

PRE-RACE
You have 1500 dollars left from your uncle’s inheritance. He told you to use it to race.
You have a car, possibly also from your uncle (convenient, eh?).
You have your crew (No, they’re not from your uncle… but they’ve probably been buddies with you for years).

Your car is functional for the start of the first race. After that, parts, tires, gas, and oil will have to be obtained. If your car wrecks in the first race and you do not have spare parts, you’re out of the race. It may be wise to pick up a few “just in cases.”

(((BEGIN LIST)))
Choose Your Car
Car choices listed by age of car

1970 Chevrolet Nova
1971 Dodge Charger
1972 Chevrolet Corvette
1972 Ford Ranchero
1973 Dodge Dart
1974 Chevrolet El Camino
1974 Ford Thunderbird
1975 Chevrolet Malibu Chevelle
1976 Ford Mustang
1977 Oldsmobile Hurst Cutlass
1978 Pontiac Ventura
1979 Pontiac Trans Am
1980 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
1981Chevrolet Camaro
1982 Cadillac Seville
1983 Cadillac Eldorado
1984 Pontiac Firebird
1985 Plymouth Laser
(((END LIST)))

WHAT’S BEEN DONE TO YOUR CAR SO FAR:
Any American automobile body made between 1970 and 1985 with a factory-manufactured steel roof is eligible. A fiberglass aftermarket roof is permitted. Your first car is probably from 1980 or earlier.
The body must be neatly installed on the frame.
No excess chopping or cutting of the body is permitted.
All cars must have complete bodies, hood, fenders, and bumpers in top-quality condition
All doors must me welded shut.
All interior hardware must be removed.
All flammable material must be removed.
All cars must run complete stock fenders. Fenders may be cut and rolled for tire clearance only.
No cutting of doors or rear window opening permitted.
The minimum wheelbase is 105”.
Rubber or fiberglass front nose permitted.
No car is to be painted more than 50% black, for visibility reasons.
All six-cylinder engines will require a minimum weight of 2,900 pounds with the driver after the race. All V-8 engines will require a minimum weight of 3,200 pounds with the driver. All engines will have a maximum rear-weight percentage of 47.5%.
No overhead cam engines allowed. All figure 8 cars must have the engine, carburetor, and side cover sealed within the first two races of the season. After that you may be disqualified is the car is inspected and any seal is broken. No coatings of any type permitted on engine. The engine may be set back for exhaust clearance only. The engine must remain forward to the fire wall.
A team may add weight to their car to meet the minimum requirements in the form of five-pound blocks painted white with the car number and division clearly marked. Added weight must be securely fashioned with a minimum of two bolts. Dislodged weight cannot be returned to the car after the race with the exception of body parts and bumpers. No weight can be fastened in the driver’s compartment or mounted behind the rear wheels or in front of the front wheels.
A factory-type rear spoiler may be used, but must meet approval of the officials and be 4 inches in height and 60 inches in length.
A full front windshield, made of lexan or equivalent, is required.
Rearview mirror is mandatory. Must be at maximum 2 1/8 x 17 3/4 in size and must not extend outside car. No side mirrors allowed.
Full hood mandatory. Hood scoop permitted but not over three inches in height. Air cleaner cannot protrude more than two inches through the hood. Hood must be fastened with two fasteners in the front and either two hinges or fasteners in the rear.
The rear deck lid must be in operating condition and fastened with four fasteners.
OEM-type front bumper mandatory. No homemade bumpers allowed. Front bumper may not be reinforced. Center line of front bumper will measure 14 inches to the ground. Front bumper may not extend out past the fenders. No jagged edges permitted.
Rear bumper amy be wither stock OEM or aluminum channel. Rear bumper may be reinforced to protect the back of the car using maximum 1 ¾ .095 maximum tubing on outside of bumper and quarter panel. The center line of the rear bumper must measure 14 inches to the ground. No jagged edges permitted.
Nerf bars are required and must be mounted at center hub height. Single diameter, straight nerf bars only. Round tubing only. No double nerf bars or jagged edges permitted. The maximum diameter will be 1 ¾ .095 maximum tubing. Nerf bars may not extend past the outside of the tires.

PLAYING THE RACE
“Drivers… Start your engines.”

Pre-qualifying laps
In most cases the positions for the start of the official race are determined by a pre-qualifying run of two laps by each individual driver. Since there are no other cars out during the qualifying laps, the player adds up his Driver’s CONTROL + STEERING with his Car’s SPEED + ACCELERATION. For players, this number will not be lower than 6 or higher than 12 at the start of the first race. The GM rolls the TRACK DIE and adds the number to the team’s total. If the total is over a 10 the team has qualified at the front of the pack. Those who don’t reach 10 are in the second half of the pack.
The GM also rolls to beat a 10 for as many NPC drivers as there are Player Teams. These NPC Teams start out with a 6 base score. Any car that beats a 10 will also place in the first half of the field. Each player then rolls a single die. All players roll a D6 for each of their driving teams. The GM rolls for each high-qualifying NPC team. The teams with the highest rolls will place first, with the others following. In case of ties, those drivers will start side-to-side. If four teams (NPC and PC) get a tie, one more roll each shall determine their order. While it sounds complicated, this rolling should not take long at all and can be rolled at the beginning of the session or in the last few minutes of the prior session.

Those Player Teams that have to start in the second half of the pack will start in 12th, 13th, 14th, and so on.
Optional Rule: If a Player Team does not qualify in the top half of the field AND the GM rolls a “1” on the TRACK DIE, something happened during qualifying and the driver now must start at the back of the pack.

Once your car has been inspected, the drivers are called to set up in two rows at the tracks start/finish line. If you do not come to your position when the Official calls you, you will have to come in at the end of the pack. You’re fine for the first race, but as the season wears on, if a number is called and the player or driver is in the bathroom, on the phone, or makin’ music with a trailer park beauty queen in the back of her van, this will count. The player must announce that his driver drives the car to its starting position within 5 minutes of the Official’s announcement or will have to go to the back of the field. The race will never be held up for any players or teams.

This leaves at the very beginning of the race 12 rows of two cars each and one straggler.

At the start of the race, the green flag will come down and the race begins.

The rest of the race is as quick as the players and GM make it.

All standard driving rolls are 8 points total for basic track racing. In this case, to make things easier for the GM, each player rolls his or her own TRACK DIE four times a lap: in each of the turns and the two times he or she passes through the Danger Zone. On a 1, the player tells the GM the result and the GM refers to a special chart that determines what happens to your car.

In real life passing will usually be successful only by coming under another car just before one of the two turns. Passing a NPC car is a contested roll of the four previously mentioned stats between the GM and the player in question + each rolls the TRACK DIE. Whoever gets the higher roll gets ahead of the other; if there’s a tie, they come around the turn and hit the straight away into the danger zone next to each other and each rolls again, both for their normal roll and for their contested roll. Another tie keeps them side by side into the next turn.

EXAMPLE: Zakk Trubble wants to pass Car #72 in the next turn and announces he’s nosing under in the next turn. Zakk’s stat total for passing (ACCELERATION + HANDLING of Car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver) is a 9 for starters, and #72 has a 6. The GM and Zakk’s player each rolls a TRACK DIE. The Player rolls a 2, the GM rolls a 1. Zakk sails smoothly under #72 who, startled, jerks the steering wheel too far away causing him to skid into the high wall.

In the event that the Player had rolled a 1, even if it beats the GM’s roll, Zakk successfully passes #72, but Zakk is at the GM’s mercy.

In the event of a “situation,” the player will use specific combinations of stats at the discretion of the GM to determine what happens next. The GM then rolls a single TRACK DIE. If the total is over 10, you make it out all right.

TIME STICKLERS: If you really want the race to run as close to real time as possible, a lap is on average 1 minute long. This means that the four rolls from the Players should come about every 15 seconds. The GM could even state “real time” to keep the rolls coming quick and, in the event of a Player-affecting situation, the GM can announce “Game time” to cause everyone to hold their rolls until the situation is resolved. A real race lasts 15 minutes (15 laps at 60 miles per hour). With “game time” included, the race will last about 10 to 15 minutes more than that, especially the first few until people get used to speed rolling.

ENDING THE RACE: You can checker-flag the lead car at the end of 15 laps or give the checkered flag to the lead car after 30 minutes, whichever comes first.

THE LAWS OF NATURE VERSUS YOUR CAR
This is how these commonly referred-to laws affect your gaming experience.

Law of Averages: Your car will crash. It doesn’t matter how good your driver, car, parts, or pit crew is, sooner or later everyone crashes. Don’t feel bad if you get put out of the race. You still get points and you maybe able to hook up with some cute ambulance driver in the mean time.

Law of Entropy: Your car will break down. It’s not exactly a new car and it’s a helluva track so the longer you go without replacing parts, the more likely something will just break down on you. As the season progresses, the GM will help you keep track of the replacement parts you’ve bought… if you let something ride for too long, the GM is allowed to take off a point from your Car’s stats. Two, if you are really negligent.

Law of Motion: A body continues in its state of constant velocity (which may be zero) unless it is acted upon by an external force. If you clip something doing 60 mph, the car and the driver are still going to try to continue going 60, in either a different direction or separate from the pieces that have successfully stopped. This will change the position of you car, incurring more rolls for your driver to straighten it out, then accelerate back up to normal speeds.

Law of Thermodynamics: The change in internal energy of a system is the sum of the heat transferred to or from the system and the work done on or by the system. Your engine is doing a lot of work. It is getting hot in there. Both the driver and the car need fluids at all time to run. Don’t forget your fluids. The GM won’t. And nearer to the end of the race the GM has the right to reduce one of your car’s stats by one if you’ve been pushing it hard.

Law of Infernal Dynamics: An object at rest will be in the wrong place. If a car crashes, it will inevitably end up on the track somewhere in front of you. The second the GM announces there is a crash on the track, roll for dodging it, no matter where you are on said track.

Murphy’s Law: Everything takes longer than you think. Or, everything takes twice as long as it should; excepting that which appears easy, taking three times as long. The idea is to play as fast as possible, but there is no way that the race will work out to under 30 minutes, no matter how well everyone is rolling. It should be discussed with the GM whether there should be house rules regarding the race. If the roleplaying surrounding the race is more important than the actual race, just do one roll per lap.

OFF-TRACK INTERACTIONS:
This is where the GM will shine, so make the most of it. In the time before and after the race there will be the opportunity for all sorts of mayhem, including arguments, brawls, challenges, betting, romance, obtaining endorsements, and otherwise the legal and illegal activities that can make or break your team.

GAMEMASTER GUIDE
The GM is responsible for a lot of things. Well, the GM appears responsible for a lot of things, but in actuality, the Players will make their own fun and the GM just has to keep track of what is happening.

This book comes with an insert that provides the layout of the track, but unless you have tokens small enough, it really is inadequate for identifying where everyone is.

Your best bet is to either have a large sheet of paper with the basic oval and figure 8 laid out on the table, or use an electronic device with the numbers of the car listed from top to bottom. On paper, it’s possible to list the drivers’ numbers from top to bottom (first to last), and mark things off throughout the lap, only writing a new list at the end of the lap.

RACING
With up to 20 drivers at your beck and call, you’d have to roll a lot to keep up with the Players’ once-every-15 second rolls. Therefore, we have a cheat lined up for you. Roll four times a lap, just like the players. Since the NPCs start with a 6, you have to roll a 4 or higher to have them move up. If you have a success, one NPC car not currently near any player may move up. If you do not make a 10, one NPC car not currently near any player falls behind. If a player announces that he or she is passing a car, substitute that contested roll for your standard roll in that 15 second period. If more than one player announces he or she is passing a car, roll for each NPC cars.

TELLING THE PLAYERS WHAT TO ROLL FOR SPECIFIC EVENTS

Taking Turns: HANDLING + SPEED of Car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver
Avoiding Accidents: HANDLING + BRAKES of Car added to REACTION TIME and STEERING of Driver
Passing: ACCELERATION + HANDLING of Car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver
Getting knocked off line: HANDLING + BRAKES of car added to CONTROL + STEERING of Driver
Repairing any part of the car: The four Pit Crew Stats added together
Obtaining missing spare parts for the car: ENGINEER + GO-GETTER of the Pit Crew added to STYLE of Driver and SPEED of Car (No it doesn’t quite make sense but hey, if the Car and Driver have good reputations, people are more likely to help out.)

SITUATIONS
When someone rolls a 1, you roll two dice and refer to the Situation Chart.
(((BEGIN CHART)))
2 = Crash, Driver heads to pit road under own power, need repairs or out of race
3 and 4 = Cut Tire (right), Lose a lap
5 through 8 = Mild touch/skid, close call, lose 1D6 seconds
9, 10, 11 = Major skid out, but no/superficial damage, but lose 2D6 seconds
12 = Bad Crash, car can’t start under own power, towed, need repairs
(((END CHART)))

Your cars are more likely to get into situations than the players’ cars, simply because there are more of them. This is fine; you want the players to place higher. Otherwise you’d be keeping the trophies for yourself and that would make them hate you.

In the event the GM rolls a 1 for the NPC drivers performing standard driving maneuvers around the track, the GM rolls the die a second time to determine where on the track the situation is occurring.
1 – Turn One
2 and 3 – Straightaway 1 through the Danger Zone
4 – Turn Two
5 and 6 – Straightaway 2 through the Danger Zone

Then the GM refers to the SITUATION CHART to determine whether it’s a minor accident or a major one. If a Player Driver is near the accident, the Player will have to roll to dodge, using the combinations listed above, you add the track die. A failed roll (under 10) means that the maneuver was not smooth, and is treated like a 1. Roll on the situation table.

FLAGS
The GM has access to the following flags and can announce them to let people know what’s going on.
GREEN: The signal to start racing, used at the beginning of the race and after any restarts.
YELLOW: Caution, used in case of accident or debris on the track, though not normally used for when a car stalls or spins out. The first drivers to see the yellow are required to start slowing. All cars must line up into a single file until they are lined up in order and given a double-up sign (crossed arms). Any car that causes a yellow flag must go to the end of the field. Any car deemed by officials to cause 2 yellow or red flags, whether intentional or not, will be removed from that race. Cars may exit to the pit area once it is officially opened, and any cars exiting to the pit area will return to the end of the field.
RED: Stops the race. When the red flag is displayed, all cars must reduce speed and stop in a safe and timely manner with regards to the other cars around them. All cars must remain stopped and drivers must remain in their cars until directed by officials, unless it is a danger to remain in the car. Cars may not exit to the pit are under a red flag condition whether under their own power or help from a push vehicle until the track reverts to yellow. The exception is “on the hook” towed vehicles. No work of any kind may be performed on any car that is or was participating in the current on-track race ANYWHERE on the speedway property while the track is under red. Any car that is towed will be taken to the pit area. The crew cannot work on the car until the track goes yellow. Cars will be lined up after a red flag in the order of the last scored green flag except for those cars that were involved in causing the red flag or cars that pitted, who will have to restart at the back of the field.
RED/YELLOW Flag: Complete restart. Can only be utilized if an accident occurs on the first lap after the original green and can only be used once per event.
BLACK: Used for singling out individual cars. A car will be black-flagged for unsafe or unsportsmanlike driving to receive disciplinary action. The driver must pull into the infield immediately to the designated place for consultation with an Official. A second black flag will eject the car and driver from the race. A black flag with an ORANGE DOT is displayed for a mechanical problem, used when officials deem you car has become mechanically unsafe or environmentally hazardous. The car must exit the track immediately and head to the pit area.
BLUE FLAG/YELLOW DIAGONAL: Passing flag. This flag will be displayed to cars being overtaken by the leaders. Drivers are responsible for holding their line WITHOUT upsetting the leaders’ progress. Ignoring the passing flag may precipitate a black flag.
WHITE FLAG: Displayed for one lap remaining. If for any reason the red flag is displayed after the white flag, the race is terminated. There is no restarting once the white flag has been displayed.
CHECKERED FLAG: Displayed for the finish of the race. Once the checkered flag has been displayed, the track conditions after the start/finish line are under caution. The cars may not exit the racetrack until they have completed a cool-down lap and crossed the finish line again. If a driver finishes in the top four positions of the event, the driver stops in the infield near the start/finish line and waits for the Official’s direction.

OUT OF THE RACE
This is only a 15 lap race, therefore any car that is towed off the race-course is out of the race. A car with a downed tire can exit and re-enter within one lap depending on the skills of the Pit Crew. Other problems (hood up, bumper loose, etc) can also be fixed with a lap penalty.

AMAZING WEATHER WE’RE HAVING
Unlike the real world, no race will ever be delayed or cancelled because of inclement bad weather. No drivers will be killed either, no matter how bad the crash. Welcome to my world.

WINNING THE RACE:
A lap before the end of the race, the GM displays the White Flag. Encourage bold maneuvers as everyone fights for first.

The checkered flag comes down on the winner one lap later. List their order as season points will be scored later.

Purse:
First place gets 5,000.00
Second gets 2,500.00
Third gets 1000.00
Fourth gets 500.00
Fifth gets 400.00
Sixth gets 300.00
Seventh gets 200.00
Eighth gets 100.00

POINTS
Points are awarded in the following manner:
1st – 50
2nd – 48
3rd – 46
4th – 44
5th – 42
dropping two points until the end.

Alternative Scoring
Eight Positions at the end of the race receive points
1st 8 points
2nd 7
3rd 6
4th 5
5th 4
6th 3
7th 2
8th 1

Points will be kept on drivers and trophies will be rewarded at the end of the season, from first to fifth place. At the end of the season, $10,000.00 will be awarded to the points leader.

LEVELING UP: After the first two races any team that successfully places in the top ten of both races may add one point anywhere in the team’s stats. The GM may also at this time decide to add one point to the generic stats of any ONE Team Number that has successfully finished three races, bringing them up to 7 total points. This becomes the “adversary” for the remaining seven races. This will be the team driver that makes the most trouble for the other player.

Don’t bother with stats for the NPC drivers while on the track: start out always rolling them at a six. After three races one will be at a seven.

Off track, also roll the NPC drivers/teams at a 6 when interacting with the players. Except for the one guy who’s at a 7 after three races. He’ll continue to be annoying for them on and off the track.

VARIATIONS ON TRACK RACING

(((BEGIN SIDE BAR)))
Optional Whacky Races
Throw out all the rules and turn it into a cartoon. As they race, the players are allowed to sabotage each other and their cars, dig out pitfalls in 15 seconds flat, change the lines on the road to direct the other drivers off the field and into walls, and so on. Have less NPCs in this case and change STYLE/CHARISMA to the TOON Factor.
(((End Sidebar)))

We’ve got nine races for the season, in order to make it an even eight, at the halfway points of the season you could offer the players an exhibition race. There’re no points involved, the players don’t use their own cars, and the prize money remains the same.

Chain-Train Racing: Three cars are chained together, the first car has an engine and a Driver, the second has neither and the last in the chain has just a Driver to help steer. Twelve laps and only cars that finish still chained together count as winners.

Gauntlet Racing: A bus consisting of a Driver and a five-person team must drive 12 laps around the track. Five cars (“The Bad Guys”) have to stop it. The bus is armed with fire extinguishers full of flour, balloons of whipped cream and other hazards. You could either have the players play the good guys all together on the bus, or the bad guys in the cars.

Bus/Semi Racing: Twelve laps of figure-eight racing with 5-8 large scary vehicles. Hilarity ensues.

OFF-TRACK EVENTS
Friendly Competition and Betting
The players probably won’t start betting on the races themselves until the third or fourth race. Friendly competition is a way to get them into betting. An NPC driver or pit crew engineer starts it up by stating how much better they are at something. Player reciprocates. NPC challenges the Player’s statement and says, “Yeah, I’ll make you eat my dust on the track.” It’s for bragging rights. If the Player loses, be sure to have the other NPC re-approach his with the “in your face” dance. Eventually this steps up to “Yeah, put your money where your mouth is, punk.” Betting is not illegal, as far as the players know.

“Hey, you’re pretty cute”
Any female drivers will be subject to traditional catcalls and remarks about their girl-dom. All guys will have groupies. SO what if it’s cliché, it’s entertaining. Guys and gals have ample opportunity to score off the race-track. By all means play up such fun. Hell, make them roll for it. A 1 means… well, the track conditions just aren’t that good.

Sabotage
There are all sorts of ways for the drivers to sabotage each other in this game. There’s a reason why the official rules below state always have someone near the car at all times. If someone can mess with car, they might, especially after a few races of friendly competition. They could also jeopardize the Driver, distracting him from hearing the call to position from the officials or putting ex-lax in his drink. By all means, encourage this.

Fights
Fights are strictly Driver or Pit Crew Stat Rolls versus NPC’s rolls, typically 8 against 6 plus 1 extra die each, unless the bonus point has been added somewhere in their stats. Cars don’t get into fights.

Scrounging Parts
If something happens to the car and the Pit Crew doesn’t have the part, they’re going to have to scrounge. Sending them off to a local junkyard, parts store, ebay, or around to the other drivers can be a great little side trip that involves the player’s skills of negotiation as well as the current funds.

Off-Track Challenges
These Teams also end up at after-race parties and get-togethers fairly often. So there can be billiards challenges, racing (off-road), drinking challenges, and so on to keep the competition going.

Blackmail
It’s rare, but there’s always a chance that someone is caught doing something they shouldn’t. If it’s a player, they could be blackmailed into throwing a race, or into giving their prize money over, or specific car parts, or hell… their car. I wouldn’t go that far, but if the player has an opportunity to blackmail someone, just watch at how low they can get.

RUMOR MILL
“I heard the driver of Car # ___ is sleeping with your sister/mother/girlfriend/wife.”
“Car # ___ always pulls to the left/slows way down coming into the Danger Zone/Takes turn 2 on the high saide.”
“That guy said he was going to kick your ass after the race.”

ENDORSEMENT COMPANIES/SPONSERSHIPS AND SITUATIONS
There’re a lot of local companies who are will to provide endorsements and sponsorships to promising skilled drivers. We’ve provided a bunch of local companies that are willing to give things to drivers for wearing their logo or doing spots for them on TV. This is a great opportunity to see one of the players stad up and do a thirty-second promo for Jack’s House of Chickens.

Bob’s Auto Body Services
Wants: You to wear his logo on helmet
Provides: 15% discounts on parts

The Kar Konnection
Wants: Logo on hood of car
Provides: A new used car (pick from the list)
Possible Sponsorship

Shear Elegance
Wants: 30-second ad on TV
Gives: Haircuts and styling to everyone

Jerry’s U-Pull-It
Wants: Prominent spot on car AND driver
Provides: All you can carry of his junkyard.

Muddy Recording Studios
Wants: to include you voice in their next CD
Gives: 500.00

Venus Recycling Inc
Wants: Logo on helmet
Gives: Scrap metal or 200.00 a race

You get the idea.
Some other fun company names; make up the rest as you go.

Jack’s House of Chicken
The Riverside Artificial Limb & Brace Co
Hetfield Plumbing, Inc
Book to Knight Four Comics and Game Store
Murky Restaurant
Jim-Jim’s Tires
Yellow Creek Bed and Breakfast
Green Bros Tools
Bayou Bakery
Swamptown’s Video Rentals
Goldbug’s Construction Co
Sinful Delights Adult Store
The Pump House Grille

APPENDIX A

STANDARD TRACK RULES
These are pretty much real standard rules EXCEPT that I’m removing about half of the ones that are “no fun.” If you decide that you want to really try figure-eight racing, go find real rules. It is assumed that your character has everything necessary to drive the first race, so read the rules at your leisure (or have the GM/Announcer read them to you as you do your character creation.


Figure 8 Division
Rules and Regulations

1. The driver shall be the sole spokesperson for his team in any and all matters pertaining to the race. The driver assumes the responsibility for the actions of his team in every respect.
2. Any individual over the age of 21 is eligible to drive. If an individual is between 18 and 21 he or she is eligible to drive if the person has a validated driver’s license and a notarized signed parental consent.
3. No one shall subject an official to abuse or improper language at any time.
4. If at any time a driver’s door or any sheet metal is ripped away exposing the driver, gas tank, etc., the car will be black-flagged from the race.
5. The track reserves the right to subject any car to a mechanical inspection. Failure to submit to an inspection will result in an immediate disqualification and loss of all points for the season. One half-hour is allowed for cool-off time.
6. The speed limit is 15 MPH everywhere except on the racing surface.
7. No one will be allowed in the pit area unless they have obtained a pit permit and signed a waiver and release form. Violators are punishable by immediate ejection, suspension and/or fine, and or disqualification of the driver and car associated with the violator.
8. Any competitor who, while competing in any event, partakes of any alcoholic beverage or recreational drug, shall be disqualified, immediately ejected, and fined.
9. Anyone entering another team’s pit area will be assigned full responsibility for any subsequent altercation.
10. A team member must remain with the racecar in the pit area at all times.
11. Officials reserve the right to subject any driver to a physical examination before being allowed to compete. In the event of an accident we have an excellent ambulance crew in attendance. When they arrive, they will be in complete charge of any and all injuries. Any driver requiring treatment or examination at any hospital emergency room or by any doctor shall have a release from the examining doctor before further competition will be allowed.
12. All original starts and restarts are double file unless the Chief Steward orders single file. Drivers will be notified by hand signals.
13. Once in staging, and upon instruction to do so, cars will be started. Cars must start all races under their own power, and roll on their own through all the parade laps and must take the initial green flag of the race to avoid penalty. No pushes by pit crew, push/tow vehicles, use of other cars, or jump starts are allowed. If the car needs assistance in order to start, the car will be sent to the rear. If an Official stops a car and a push is needed to restart the car, the car may retain its position.
14. Dirty Water Raceway uses flags to signal the officials’ rulings.
GREEN: The signal to start racing, used at the beginning of the race and after any restarts. Stay in your groove as you gain speed and be aware of the cars around you.
YELLOW: Caution, used in case of accident or debris on the track, though not normally used for when a car stalls or spins out. The first drivers to see the yellow are required to start slowing. All cars must line up into a single file until they are lined up in order and given a double-up sign (crossed arms). Any car that causes a yellow flag must go to the end of the field. Any car deemed by officials to cause 2 yellow or red flags, whether intentional or not, will be removed from that race. Cars may exit to the pit area once it is officially opened, and any cars exiting to the pit area will return to the end of the field.
RED: Stops the race. When the red flag is displayed, all cars must reduce speed and stop in a safe and timely manner with regards to the other cars around them. All cars must remain stopped and drivers must remain in their cars until directed by officials, unless it is a danger to remain in the car. Cars may not exit to the pit are under a red flag condition whether under their own power or help from a push vehicle until the track reverts to yellow. The exception is “on the hook” towed vehicles. No work of any kind may be performed on any car that is or was participating in the current on-track race ANYWHERE on the speedway property while the track is under red.
Any car that is towed will be taken to the pit area. The crew cannot work on the car until the track goes yellow. Cars will be lined up after a red flag in the order of the last scored green flag except for those cars that were involved in causing the red flag or cars that pitted, who will have to restart at the back of the field.
RED/YELLOW Flag: Complete restart. Can only be utilized on the first lap after the original green and can only be used once per event.
BLACK: Used for singling out individual cars. A car will be black-flagged for unsafe or unsportsmanlike driving to receive disciplinary action. Pull into the infield immediately to the designated place for consultation with an Official. A second black flag will eject you from the race. A black flag with an ORANGE DOT is displayed for mechanical problem, used when officials deem you car has become mechanically unsafe or environmentally hazardous. The car must exit the track immediately and head to the pit area. If it is unclear as to what is wrong with the car, report to the Official at the pit board.
BLUE FLAG/YELLOW DIAGONAL: Passing flag. This flag will be displayed to cars being overtaken by the leaders. Drivers are responsible for holding their line WITHOUT upsetting the leaders’ progress. Ignoring the passing flag may precipitate a black flag.
WHITE FLAG: Displayed for one lap remaining. If for any reason the red flag is displayed after the white flag, the race is terminated. There is no restarting once the white flag has been displayed.
CHECKERED FLAG: Displayed for the finish of the race. Once the checkered flag has been displayed and you have crossed the start/finish line, the track conditions are under caution. Do not exit racetrack until you have completed a cool-down lap and cross the finish line again. If you think you have finished in the top four positions of your main event, stop in infield near the start/finish line and wait for the Official’s direction.
15. All cars entering a meet must begin with complete bodies. No car may be allowed to qualify or compete without a hood or driver’s door. If the car has an inner sheet metal panel mounted to the drivers side of the roll cage, the car may be allowed to compete is the driver’s door is torn off and the inner panel remains intact.
16. If the hood flies up the driver must leave the track immediately.
17. If either right side tire or both left side tires are flat, the driver will be black-flagged and must leave the track immediately. A car may continue with one left side flat as long as the driver can maintain a safe racing speed while displaying adequate control of the car.
18. All lug nuts must e on and tightened to specifications before a car can enter the race track at any time. The driver of a car found with loose or missing lug nuts will be penalized. A driver that loses a wheel due to improper tightened lug nuts will be fines a minimum of $50.00.
19. All cars must have bumpers. If a car loses its bumper on the track, the car will be black-flagged and removed from the remainder of the race. Most bumpers are therefore chained on.
20. No racing in the infield is allowed. You must get out of throttle, gain and maintain control of your car, then get up to speed, paralleling either straight-away, then ease into the low groove. Any other method of re-entry is subject to penalties. You may not “cut” in the infield in order to gain positions, although a blocked tracked, debris, crash or spin of another vehicle is allowed to influence the official’s judgment call.
21. The event must run to the halfway point in order to be considered official. At that point, if the time limit expires or curfew arrives prior to completion of the advertised distance, the race ends at the next yellow (a yellow-checkered) or the checkered flag for the advertised distance, whichever comes first.

APPENDIX B

THE CATALOG
Used Car – 3500.00
Diagnostic scanner with PC link – 679.99
Oil Change Pump – 24.99
Body panels
Front Fender – 139.99
Rocker Panel – 27.99
Complete Door Skin – 69.99
Lower Outer Door Skin – 22.99
Rear Valence – 39.99
Outer Rear Wheelhouse – 59.99
Rear Quarter Repair Panel – 94.99
Complete Seat Floor – 119.99
Trunk Floor – 99.99
Lower Rear Section of Front Fender – 49.99
Lower Outer Door Skin – 27.99
Panel Below Rear Window – 49.99
Lower Rear Section of Rear Quarter Panel – 39.99
Inner Rear Wheelhouse – 79.99
Seat Floor – 9.99
Trunk Floor Side Extensions – 29.99
Trunk Side Drop-Offs – 29.99
Trunk Floor Brace – 39.99
Rear Shock Tower Patch – 24.99
Rear Frame Rail – 129.99
Engine Rebuild Kit – 259.99
Engine swap motor mounts – 79.99
Cylinder Head/Block – 299.99
Pistons/Rods – 39.99 each
Crankshaft/balancer
Crankshaft Pulley – 35.99
Camshaft – 119.99
Valve Lifters – 89.99
Rocker Arms – 49.99
Intake Manifold – 209.99
Air Filter – 5.87
Steering Wheel and Mounting Kit – 55.99
Gauges
Speedometer – 24.99
Oil Pressure/Water Pressure/Ammeter – 23.99
Fuel Gauge – 19.99
Carburetor (only one permitted) – 399.99
With carburetor jets – 899.99
Boosters – 68.99
Venturi – 59.99
Baseplate with Throttle Shaft – 209.99
Throttle Body Injector Assembly – 299.99
Carburetor Fuel Filter – 4.99
Ignition System –
Master cut-off Switch – 27.99
Lug Nuts – Box of 25 – 19.99
Spark Plug – 6.99
Battery – 59.99
Oil Hose – 27.99
Oil Filter – 4.97
Fan Clutch – 39.99
Radiator – 199.99
Coolers – 79.99
Leaf Springs – 75.99
Cooling System (Pump) – 30.21
Cooling Fan (engine) – 105.99
Exhaust system – 249.99
Muffler – 89.99
Tailpipe/installation kit – 16.99
Clutch Kit – 168.88
Flywheel – 149.99
Cover – 28/99
Wheels – 91.99 EACH
Tires – 80.00 EACH
Drive Shaft – 12.99
Suspension
Shocks – 19.99
Strut Cartridge – 29.99
Strut Assembly – 60.99

Brake Systems
Brake Rotors – 59.99
Front Discs and Drums – 27.95
Front Brake Pads – 26.94
Front Wheel Hydraulics – 86.95
Rear Brake Discs – 37.94
Rear Brake Pads – 26.97
Rear Wheel Hydraulics – 108.80

Fire Wall – 34.99
Fuel Tank – 199.99
Mounting Strap – 39.99
Filler Neck 29.99
Fuel Cell – 245.99
Fuel Line – 13.99
Fuel Pump Kit – 39.99
Alternator – 89.99
Helmets – 139.99
Seat Frame – 49.99
Quick Release Safety belts – 199.99
Roll Cages – 209.99
Fire Retardent Suit _199.99
Front Shock Absorbers – 41.77
Rear Shock Absorbers – 41.01
Fuel – in your area
Oil – ditto
Water – need I say more?

[JenniferS]

Is this clear enough?

[rpoppe]

This game is all style and looks unbelievably fun.

Who would pick any car other than a '71 Charger, though?

[JenniferS]

Maybe someone can help me. My computer's keyboard upstairs broke. We created the track layout upstairs. The story is on the laptop downstairs. The track layout gets put in Photobucket. How can I get A + B into an acceptable document to send to Mr. Gamechef under deadline?

[JenniferS]

Never mind. I figured it out.